White Gold Hand

When Did Rolex Begin Using White Gold Hands?

Rolex started implementing white gold hands in the middle to late 1980s, with some examples seen from the early 1980s.

Marianna du Maurier
3 Min Read

When it comes to the hands and hour markers on modern Rolex watches, they are made in 18ct gold, specifically white gold. But why did Rolex begin using white gold hands and hour markers? In this section, we will explore the reasons why Rolex made this change and when it happened.

When did Rolex Start using White Gold Hands?

Rolex started implementing white gold hands in the middle to late 1980s, with some examples seen from the early 1980s. However, not all steel Rolex watches got white gold hands at the same time, due to natural reasons. Vintage Rolex watches have hands and hour markers made in steel, which can corrode and oxidize over time. To prevent tarnishing, Rolex implemented white gold hands, which retain their integrity and do not rust.

Why Rolex began using white gold hands and hour markers

Rolex’s ambition is to build long-lasting timepieces that look just the same in ten or twenty years as they do now. To support this vision, Rolex changed from stainless steel hands and hour markers to 18ct white gold ones. Over time, Rolex noticed that the steel hands and hour markers tarnished and even rusted, which was opposite to Rolex’s vision. The purpose of the change to white gold was to preserve the integrity of the watch as it ages. Although the shininess of white gold enhances the luxurious appearance of Rolex watches, it was not the key reason for the change.

When did Rolex Start using White Gold Hands and hour markers?

Rolex first implemented white gold hands as watches from the 1970s started showing corrosion issues. However, Rolex did not implement white gold indices simultaneously. The general consensus is that Rolex started using white gold hands a few years before the white gold hour markers. The first Submariner to have white gold hour markers was the reference 16800, which was originally introduced with a matte dial. The first GMT-Master reference to have white gold hands was the reference 16750, which was also initially introduced with a matte dial.

Rolex uses white gold hands and markers for all white-metal watches

Rolex uses yellow gold or rose gold hands and hour markers for yellow gold and rose gold watches, respectively. However, white gold hands and hour markers are used for all white-metal watches, including white gold, platinum, and stainless steel watches. This change was made to preserve the integrity of the watch and prevent tarnishing.

In conclusion, Rolex’s change from steel hands and hour markers to 18ct white gold ones supported its vision of building long-lasting timepieces. The implementation of white gold hands and hour markers began in the 1980s, and today, they are used for all white-metal watches.

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